Learning objectives
Section Key Terms
| longitudinal wave | mechanical wave | medium | wave |
| periodic wave | pulse wave | transverse wave |
Mechanical Waves
What do we mean when we say something is a wave? A wave is a disturbance that travels or propagates from the place where it was created. Waves transfer energy from one place to another, but they do not necessarily transfer any mass. Light, sound, and waves in the ocean are common examples of waves. Sound and water waves are mechanical waves; meaning, they require a medium to travel through. The medium may be a solid, a liquid, or a gas, and the speed of the wave depends on the material properties of the medium through which it is traveling. However, light is not a mechanical wave; it can travel through a vacuum such as the empty parts of outer space.
A familiar wave that you can easily imagine is the water wave. For water waves, the disturbance is in the surface of the water, an example of which is the disturbance created by a rock thrown into a pond or by a swimmer splashing the water surface repeatedly. For sound waves, the disturbance is caused by a change in air pressure, an example of which is when the oscillating cone inside a speaker creates a disturbance. For earthquakes, there are several types of disturbances, which include the disturbance of Earth’s surface itself and the pressure disturbances under the surface. Even radio waves are most easily understood using an analogy with water waves. Because water waves are common and visible, visualizing water waves may help you in studying other types of waves, especially those that are not visible.
Water waves have characteristics common to all waves, such as amplitude, period, frequency, and energy, which we will discuss in the next section.
Pulse Waves and Periodic Waves
If you drop a pebble into the water, only a few waves may be generated before the disturbance dies down, whereas in a wave pool, the waves are continuous. A pulse wave is a sudden disturbance in which only one wave or a few waves are generated, such as in the example of the pebble. Thunder and explosions also create pulse waves. A periodic wave repeats the same oscillation for several cycles, such as in the case of the wave pool, and is associated with simple harmonic motion. Each particle in the medium experiences simple harmonic motion in periodic waves by moving back and forth periodically through the same positions.
Teacher Support
[BL] Any kind of wave, whether mechanical or nonmechanical, or transverse or longitudinal, can be in the form of a pulse wave or a periodic wave.
Consider the simplified water wave in Figure_13_01_SimpleWave. This wave is an up-and-down disturbance of the water surface, characterized by a sine wave pattern. The uppermost position is called the crest and the lowest is the trough. It causes a seagull to move up and down in simple harmonic motion as the wave crests and troughs pass under the bird.
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Original figure description: A seagull bobs up and down on a sine-wave-shaped periodic ocean wave.
Longitudinal Waves and Transverse Waves
Mechanical waves are categorized by their type of motion and fall into any of two categories: transverse or longitudinal. Note that both transverse and longitudinal waves can be periodic. A transverse wave propagates so that the disturbance is perpendicular to the direction of propagation. An example of a transverse wave is shown in Figure_13_01_Transverse, where a woman moves a toy spring up and down, generating waves that propagate away from herself in the horizontal direction while disturbing the toy spring in the vertical direction.
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Original figure description: A woman moves a slinky up and down, creating transverse waves that propagate horizontally away from her while disturbing the slinky vertically.
In contrast, in a longitudinal wave, the disturbance is parallel to the direction of propagation. Figure_13_01_Longitudin shows an example of a longitudinal wave, where the woman now creates a disturbance in the horizontal direction—which is the same direction as the wave propagation—by stretching and then compressing the toy spring.
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Original figure description: A woman stretches and compresses a slinky horizontally, creating longitudinal waves that propagate horizontally away from her and disturbing the slinky horizontally as well.
Longitudinal waves are sometimes called compression waves or compressional waves, and transverse waves are sometimes called shear waves.
Teacher Support
Transverse and longitudinal waves may be demonstrated in the class using a spring or a toy spring, as shown in the figures.
Waves may be transverse, longitudinal, or a combination of the two. The waves on the strings of musical instruments are transverse (as shown in Figure_13_01_GuitarWave), and so are electromagnetic waves, such as visible light. Sound waves in air and water are longitudinal. Their disturbances are periodic variations in pressure that are transmitted in fluids.
View original figure (external; image not reproduced in this text edition)
Original figure description: A guitar string is disturbed vertically but travels horizontally. Sound travels from the guitar, through an amplifier, out of a speaker, and to a piece of paper, which vibrates back and forth with the waves of compression.
Sound in solids can be both longitudinal and transverse. Essentially, water waves are also a combination of transverse and longitudinal components, although the simplified water wave illustrated in Figure_13_01_SimpleWave does not show the longitudinal motion of the bird.
Earthquake waves under Earth’s surface have both longitudinal and transverse components as well. The longitudinal waves in an earthquake are called pressure or P-waves, and the transverse waves are called shear or S-waves. These components have important individual characteristics; for example, they propagate at different speeds. Earthquakes also have surface waves that are similar to surface waves on water.
Teacher Support
Energy propagates differently in transverse and longitudinal waves. It is important to know the type of the wave in which energy is propagating to understand how it may affect the materials around it.
Introduction to Waves
This video explains wave propagation in terms of momentum using an example of a wave moving along a rope. It also covers the differences between transverse and longitudinal waves, and between pulse and periodic waves.
Introduction to waves | Mechanical waves and sound | Physics | Khan Academy
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The Physics of Surfing
Many people enjoy surfing in the ocean. For some surfers, the bigger the wave, the better. In one area off the coast of central California, waves can reach heights of up to 50 feet in certain times of the year (Figure_13_01_Surfers).
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Original figure description: A surfer glides down a giant wave while another surfer watches from the wave’s crest.
How do waves reach such extreme heights? Other than unusual causes, such as when earthquakes produce tsunami waves, most huge waves are caused simply by interactions between the wind and the surface of the water. The wind pushes up against the surface of the water and transfers energy to the water in the process. The stronger the wind, the more energy transferred. As waves start to form, a larger surface area becomes in contact with the wind, and even more energy is transferred from the wind to the water, thus creating higher waves. Intense storms create the fastest winds, kicking up massive waves that travel out from the origin of the storm. Longer-lasting storms and those storms that affect a larger area of the ocean create the biggest waves since they transfer more energy. The cycle of the tides from the Moon’s gravitational pull also plays a small role in creating waves.
Actual ocean waves are more complicated than the idealized model of the simple transverse wave with a perfect sinusoidal shape. Ocean waves are examples of orbital progressive waves, where water particles at the surface follow a circular path from the crest to the trough of the passing wave, then cycle back again to their original position. This cycle repeats with each passing wave.
As waves reach shore, the water depth decreases and the energy of the wave is compressed into a smaller volume. This creates higher waves—an effect known as shoaling.
Since the water particles along the surface move from the crest to the trough, surfers hitch a ride on the cascading water, gliding along the surface. If ocean waves work exactly like the idealized transverse waves, surfing would be much less exciting as it would simply involve standing on a board that bobs up and down in place, just like the seagull in the previous figure.
Additional information and illustrations about the scientific principles behind surfing can be found in the “Using Science to Surf Better!” video.
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Check Your Understanding
Teacher Support
Use these questions to assess students’ achievement of the section’s Learning Objectives. If students are struggling with a specific objective, these questions will help identify such objective and direct them to the relevant content.
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What are the categories of mechanical waves based on the type of motion?
- Both transverse and longitudinal waves
- Only longitudinal waves
- Only transverse waves
- Only surface waves
In which direction do the particles of the medium oscillate in a transverse wave?
- Perpendicular to the direction of propagation of the transverse wave
- Parallel to the direction of propagation of the transverse wave
Section Summary
- A wave is a disturbance that moves from the point of creation and carries energy but not mass.
- Mechanical waves must travel through a medium.
- Sound waves, water waves, and earthquake waves are all examples of mechanical waves.
- Light is not a mechanical wave since it can travel through a vacuum.
- A periodic wave is a wave that repeats for several cycles, whereas a pulse wave has only one crest or a few crests and is associated with a sudden disturbance.
- Periodic waves are associated with simple harmonic motion.
- A transverse wave has a disturbance perpendicular to its direction of propagation, whereas a longitudinal wave has a disturbance parallel to its direction of propagation.
Concept Items
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Which of the examples is closest to being purely a longitudinal wave?
- light waves
- water waves in a lake
- sound waves in air
- seismic waves in Earths surface
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Critical Thinking
Give an example of a wave that propagates only through a solid.
- Light wave
- Sound wave
- Seismic wave
- Surface wave
Can mechanical waves be periodic waves?
- No, mechanical waves cannot be periodic waves.
- Yes, mechanical waves can be periodic.
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Test Prep Multiple Choice
What kind of waves are sound waves?
- Mechanical waves
- Electromagnetic waves
What kind of a wave does a tuning fork create?
- Pulse wave
- Periodic wave
- Electromagnetic wave
What kind of waves are electromagnetic waves?
- Longitudinal waves
- Transverse waves
- Mechanical waves
- P-waves
With reference to waves, what is a disturbance?
- It refers to the resistance produced by some particles of a material.
- It refers to an oscillation produced by some energy that creates a wave.
- It refers to the wavelength of the wave.
- It refers to the speed of the wave.
Test Prep Short Answer
Give an example of a non-mechanical wave.
- A radio wave is an example of a nonmechanical wave.
- A sound wave is an example of a nonmechanical wave.
- A surface wave is an example of a nonmechanical wave.
- A seismic wave is an example of a nonmechanical wave.
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What kind of wave is thunder?
- Transverse wave
- Pulse wave
- R-wave
- P-wave
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Give an example of orbital progressive waves.
- light waves
- ocean waves
- sound waves
- seismic waves
Test Prep Extended Response
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Glossary
- longitudinal wave
- wave in which the disturbance is parallel to the direction of propagation
- mechanical wave
- wave that requires a medium through which it can travel
- medium
- solid, liquid, or gas material through which a wave propagates
- periodic wave
- wave that repeats the same oscillation for several cycles and is associated with simple harmonic motion
- pulse wave
- sudden disturbance with only one wave or a few waves generated
- transverse wave
- wave in which the disturbance is perpendicular to the direction of propagation
- wave
- disturbance that moves from its source and carries energy