~~ Oda GF + PLANTED HARDY CATALPA, KANSAS FIG, 47 Seep.54 0to30years. 2?
ars,fortelegraphpolesin Catalpaattainssizeforpostsin8to10ye
50 AMERICAN MUSEUM GUIDE LEAFLETS are so large that the crowns of the remaining trees will not meet and shade the ground within a short time.
(2). On rocky land with thin soil little valuable for agriculture. (3). In wet places where no other crops will grow (iig. 48). (4). On hillsides too steep to plow (Fig. 4 ) especially if these slopes adjoin fertile fields and are subject to washing (Fig. 5). If a forest in such FIG.48.DISMALSWAMP,SHOWING“CYPRESSKNEES" The rich soil of swamp lands supports luxuriant growth. Giant cypress trees have been known to measure 40 feet in circumference. A problem of the immediate future: to drain swamp lands north and south. plant forests,andincidentallybetterhealthconditions
TREES AND FORESTRY a7 FIG49.SEEDPLANTERS,ANGELESNATIONALFOREST,CALIFORNIA Trees should be planted on hillsides too steep to plow, in the East or in the West. a situation is to serve a double purpose, namely, furnish a tree crop for orownstock Db market and protect agricultural land, it is best to plant nurseryto control the species and hasten the reforesting.
(5) Along sandy shores, or along mud banks of rivers and creek-. Such forestation is imperative when the watercourses run through fertile soil which washes away during fall and spring freshets.
In addition to a wood lot there should be shelter belts of trees to protect buildings, crops or stock feeding-grounds from prevailing winds. It is advised that not less than one-eighth of a farm consist of woodland. Along the exposed sides of a wood lot encourage the growth of a dense border of shrubs and low trees to protect the woodland from drying and to prevent windfalls. If a forest border is to be planted, choose a rapid-growing species, such as box elder, hardy catalpa or Carolina poplar, and one or more slow-growing species for later and permanent protection, such as any of the conifers.
No tree crop in the East is likely to prove more profitable than white pine, in the wood lot, on sandy shores, hilly fields or worn-out land. White pine reaches marketable size in thirty-five years, i. e. growing close (6 to 9 feet apart each way) and unpruned for box-board:. A tract of pine for high-grade timber should remain uncut for a somewhat longer pero‘d. Such a tract will increase its value greatly, even fifty per cent, if the trees
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TREES AND FORESTRY a9 FIG5l.KNOCKINGSEEDSOUTOFPINECONES Cleveland National Forest, California are kept thinned and pruned. Such a cared-for tract may vield 25,000 B. M. per acre, five times the average yield of Michigan white pine forests. The following figures are interesting for owners of New England abandoned farms:
Average cost per acre of Jand %y Me : $4.00 Average cost of raising and planting see dian eee pines oe 484 Average taxes at 2 percent for40 yrs. . - . ...... 3.20 $12.04 Compound interest for 40 yrs. making total cost... . $50.99 per acre. Average yield per acre box-board timber, 40 cords, at $4 } per cord $160 Met neti see ee en ee eS | ec SEO90L per acre:
60 AMERICAN MUSEUM GUIDE LEAFLETS GROWTH OF TREES FROM SEEDS REES in nature grow not only from seeds but also from stump sprouts and sometimes from cuttings (twigs broken from the trees during storms). Man’s best method, with few exceptions (see p. 62) is to grow trees from seeds.
Obtaining the Seeds Seeds may be purchased from nurserymen but the grade is not always reliable and the cost is high. If possible, collect the seeds for the immediate need. Collect thoroughly ripe seeds from well-grown roadside or field trees or from trees at the edge of the forest, remembering that as a rule the best and largest seeds produce the best trees. If seeds are obtained from a distance, the resulting trees will be hardier if the seeds come from a more northerly rather than from a more southerly section. Test the seeds by cutting open a few to see that the kernels are plump and moist. If desired make an absolute test as follows: plant some of the seeds in sphagnum or wet sand; cover the seeds their own depth and keep moist; the greater number of tree seeds germinate in from ten to thirty days. Disposition of Tree Seeds for the Winter Nature plants tree seeds soon after they ripen; the time of sprouting is another matter. Seeds that ripen in the spring are likely to sprout and make strong seedlings before winter; such are the elms and soft maples, poplars and willows. Of those that ripen in the fall, a few such as the white oak may grow before frost, but the larger number wait until spring. Among those that lie dormant one or more years are the linden, locust and redcedar.
Seeds should be removed from their cones, husks or pulpy coverings (Fig. 51) and then spread out to dry in the sun or in a warm room of the house. Dry only enough to prevent moulding; excessive drying destroys the vitality of the seeds. ‘To insure for the winter the safe keeping of nuts and acorns and the smaller seeds, except those of conifers, arrange in a box in layers separated by layers of moist sand. Store this box in some cool cellar-like place or bury it in a shallow pit out of doors, heaping the soil above and further protecting from rain by boards. Seeds of pine, spruce and other conifers may be kept in boxes of dry sand, or in bags hung in a dry, cold place.
If a seed bed can be made in the fall, many seeds may be planted advantageously at that time. The loam of the ordinary garden bed serves well for broadleaf trees; conifers need a mixture of loam and one-third sand. The
TREES AND FORESTRY 61 seed bed should be spaded deeply and well fertilized with forest mould, phosphate of lime or well-rotted manure. Locate the seed bed on the north side of some building, fence or hedge so that it will be sheltered from too great sun. ‘The seeds may be sown very thickly in drills 8 to 10 inches apart. Cover them about twice their own depth; seeds are often killed by deep planting. Cover the seed bed with a two-inch layer of chaff or of sphagnum or pine needles to keep the soil from drying. Before frost comes give the bed a thick protecting cover ot hay or straw.
Spring Planting of Tree Seeds If the seeds kept through the winter are to be planted in an out-of-door seed bed they should not be removed from their winter quarters until time for that out-of-door planting after the frost is out of the ground ; but if they are to be started in flower pots or boxes in the house, they may be brought out and planted in February or March. They must be planted immediately on being disturbed. The surface of the earth in the flower pots or boxes should be kept moist by a layer of sphagnum or chaff, of crushed dead leaves or of pine needles.
Most tree seeds are slow in germination, beech, maple and oak requiring XV oe LAAAAL LA OS EAAH EATER ILE EES, MMLSORFEOLIITS PRSSELTEDLELIFLE Ls FIG.52.COVERFORSEEDBEDS In some instances, the cover is placed high enough to make a Jath house in which those in charge can work, although a low cover is much to be preferred. Salt Lake National Forest, Utah
62 AMERICAN MUSEUM GUIDE LEAFLETS six weeks to appear above the ground, pine and spruce four weeks. Growth may be hastened by soaking the seeds twenty-four hours before planting. Seeds of linden and locust should have boiling water poured over them or should be soaked in hot water for three or four days.
How to Care for Seedling Trees As a rule seedling trees grow very slowly their first year. Pines grow three inches or less, in fact, pines grow very slowly for the first five years and not rapidly until they are ten years old. Broadleaf seedlings grow faster than those of conifers; chestnut and a few others make the astonishing growth of fifteen to twenty-four inches their first year. Seedlings grown in the house need the ordinary care given to house plants. If they are grown in the seed bed they must be kept partly shaded, and be protected from wind. — It is suggested that a bed have a cover made of strips of lath, the width of a lath apart. This cover should be placed one foot or more above the bed, held on stakes driven into the ground at the corners of the bed (Fig. 52). A cover similar to this may be made of brush. Any cover should be movable so that it can be taken off on dark days. Conifers should be shaded for two or three years; broadleaf trees only during their first season.
Keep the soil of the seed bed loosened; also free from weeds. Thin the seedlings so that each will have light and air. For winter protection the row of seedlings should be banked with earth and the nursery bed covered with straw. For directions for transplanting see p. 64. GROWTH OF TREES FROM CUTTINGS ILLOWS and poplars may be grown from cuttings. Thus a quick method is provided for covering land to hold the soil along streams (cottonwood is recommended for irrigation ditches), and to prevent severe erosion from overflow. The cuttings may be put into their permanent place at once or may be started in a nursery bed or in boxes. Considerable moisture is needed until the roots are formed. ‘The usual cuttings are one foot in length and one-fourth to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Plant with the buds pointing upward, and place three-fourths or more of the cutting underground. The soil must be closely packed above each cutting. Good results are gained by making the cuttings in late fall and keeping them buried in sand in the cellar or in some out-of-door place till spring, then planting as described. ‘This is like the natural method; that is, the winter winds may whip twigs from willow trees, these twigs may lie dor-