TREES AND FORESTRY 68 mant, only healing the broken place, and grow in spring, increasing the number of willows along river or swamp.
In the practical work of growing willows for basketry — a paying venture in the meadows and bottomlands of agricultural districts — cuttings are started in beds or boxes in the fall and transplanted in the spring. ‘The farmer plows a long furrow, lays the cuttings in the furrow, then plows a second furrow to close the first; makes a third for cuttings, a fourth to close it, and so on, putting some 34,000 or more cuttings to the acre. (For details concerning willow growing and its financial returns see Bulletins 19 and 46, U.S. Forest Service; also Circular 148.)
GROWTH OF TREES FROM SPROUTS ROADLEAF trees, in distinction from conifers, have the inherent tendency when cut down to sprout from the stump, that is, to form new buds in the cambium. As we should expect, this sprout growth is unusually rapid at first, fed by the perfected root system of the original tree; and trees possessing the sprouting power in large degree have great economic value. A forest of basswood, catalpa, chestnut, blue gum, black locust, soft maple, Russian mulberry, Osage orange or white willow FIG.53.PLANTATIONOFBLACKLOCUST This species is valuable since it thrives in plantations and has an extensive range. See p. 64
64 AMERICAN MUSEUM GUIDE LEAFLETS can be perpetuated for many succeeding crops of posts or poles, fuel, or small timber without renewal from seeds, but the sprouting power diminishes gradually with age.
To insure good sprout growth, the trees should be cut in winter or early spring and should be cut low. The stump must be as nearly level with the forest floor as possible so that it will be protected by a cover of leaves and snow and so that the sprouts may early form their own root systems. If the stump is a foot or more high, the cut surface should be oblique in order to shed the rain. All of the sprouts except three or four of the stronger ones should be removed at the close of the first season to give space and light for those remaining.
For hedges and windbreaks, Osage orange sprout trees are recommended. For production of fence posts in sprout forest, chestnut, hardy catalpa (Fig. 47), black locust (Fig 53) Russian mulberry and Osage orange are valuable. If the purpose of a wood lot is the production of posts, poles or ties, the sprout method is used even at the beginning; that is, at the close of the second year after the seedlings are in their permanent sites, they are cut back to the ground, then at the end of the next year all but one sprout is cut away; thus is gained a taller, straighter shaft than the seedling would have given. During the succeeding years these shafts are kept well pruned of low branches.
TREE AND SHRUB TRANSPLANTING HOOSE trees that are not too large and that are free from fun-i and insects. The various maples and the American elm transplant easily and may be eight to ten feet high; but almost any forest tree can be safely transplanted if only three or four feet in ke‘ght. Choose trees suitable to the given purpose as well as to the selected place, —lawn, school grounds, roadside, windbreak, or denuded forest. Have in mind, however, that any tree or set of trees may serve secondary purposes, i. e. the trees of a windbreak may eventually produce good timber or telegraph poles; trees valuable for the roadside may also produce nuts o* valuable tree seeds, or may have flowers that yield large amounts of honey. It will pay to transplant wild seedlings to a nursery bed, strengthen them there for one or more years, then transplant to a permanent site. They must be transplanted as carefully as the older trees and must be shaded at first, as are nursery-grown seedlings.
It is thought that the transplanting of certain trees, especially of oaks and conifers, is made more liable to failure by an interdependence that
TREES AND FORESTRY 65 exists between the trees’ roots and minute fungi of the soil (Mycorrhiza). When a tree is transplanted, these fungi are largely left behind and are likely to be lacking in the new soil.
Time of Transplanting Transplant on wet or cloudy days in spring, or in warm regions in fall, when the tree is without its leaves and before the buds have opened. As soon as the buds open, it is too late to transplant with best success, since the new leaves will very likely die and the loss may not be replaced quickly enough to save the tree.
In the case of evergreen trees, theoretically any season will serve for transplanting, since they never lose all of their leaves. Practically, however, the best time is spring, when the buds for the new year’s growth have not opened and the soil is not frozen. Summer cannot be the best time, since evaporation from the leaves under the summer sun must be so rapid that the tree may be injured before the roots are properly at work (see below, for ball planting of evergreens).
Method of Transplanting The secret of successful transplanting lies in removing the tree from the ground with roots as nearly unbroken as possible, and in keeping these roots from drying. Do not expose the roots to sunlight or wind even for a few seconds; cover them — and keep them covered till they are in the ground again — with wet sphagnum or wet cloths, or best of all put them at once into a pail or tub of thin mud. Small trees may be carried in a pail of mud from the woods to the planting site.
If desired, ball-planting may be practised, that is the roots may be removed in a mass or block of earth. Conifers are difficult to transplant, in that they never revive if there is any drying of the roots, therefore ballplanting is recommended for them. ‘This is often accomplished in winter, in which case the transplanting is begun at the approach of freezing weather, the hole for the tree is dug in the permanent site and the removal of the tree started. The digging about the tree is done a little at a time to allow deeper freezing of the soil about the roots; the tree is not removed to the new site until all of the soil is frozen even at the bottom of the block. The hole for a tree should be dug wide enough to take the roots spread out in their natural position, and deep enough to let the tree settle into the soil to a position similar to that it had before transplanting. The soil to be put back into the hole must be made free from lumps and stones, so fine that it can be sifted about the roots. There must remain no air spaces, where rootlets may die because they cannot reach food. If the soil
66 AMERICAN MUSEUM GUIDE LEAFLETS is not good growing soil, it should be enriched by the admixture of wellrottedmanure.
Hold the tree perpendicularly in position and sift fine soil over and around the roots till they are covered, slightly lifting and lowering the tree in its place to allow the particles of soil to settle close under and about the rootlets. After this, fill the hole with shovelfuls of soil, treading it down firmly as it is put in. Fill to a little higher than the surrounding level to allow for settling. Use no water during the transplanting unless the ground is very dry, in which case, put water on by sprinkling or spraying after the soil is well packed about the roots.
Trim the top of the tree so that it will not greatly exceed the extent of the root system, which probably was reduced in the transplanting. This cutting away of branches is especially necessary if the transplanting is done late in spring when the tree is in leaf, for the evaporating surface must be reduced. It is best for both the latter reason and for relation to the root system that evergreens be cut back whenever transplanted. Almost any young shrub one to three feet tall, depending on the kind, can be successfully transplanted if care is used to keep the roots moist. Nothing could be more satisfactory for massed effects at the sides of the home lawn or for the school grounds, than the wild shrubs from the roadside or the woods border. Such shrubs are laurel, witchhazel, elderberry, spicebush, sumach, flowering dogwood, red osier, maple-leaved viburnum, thorn apple, barberry and many others.
In planting a mass of shrubs follow directions for tree transplanting except that the whole space must be dug up so as to set the shrubs two to three feet apart. Do not leave sod between the shrubs or allow grass to grow there later. Transplanting Stock from the Nursery A tree nursery needs the same situation, soil and preparation as a seed bed (see p. 60). If the soil is dry, wet thoroughly the day before the transplanting. For hand cultivation, plant in parallel rows 2 feet apart; for horse cultivation, the rows may be 33 to 4 feet apart. Dig the trenches such depth as to allow transplanted seedlings to stand 1 to 2 inches deeper than they grew. Set conifer seedlings 4 inches apart in the rows, broadleaf seedlings 6 inches apart.
The important item here, as in all transplanting, is to avoid exposure of the roots to air for even a few seconds. As soon as the seedlings are out of the soil they should have moist earth, wet cloths or chaff thrown over them, or should be put into a pail or tub of thin mud. Leave plants in the nursery until 12 to 18 inches high.
Transplanting seedlings one or more times, from seed bed to nursery, from nursery to permanent site, strengthens the root systems by making
TREES AND FORESTRY 67 them more compact, and the resulting young trees are more vigorous than those left undisturbed. The long tap roots of oaks and walnuts and of catalpa should be cut off at the first transplanting. Older plants in the nursery should have root pruning some time before the last transplanting, that is, a sharp spade should be thrust into the soil around and under the trees. PLANTING GUIDE CompiledfromthereportsoftheUnitedStatesForestService EFER to the Jesup Collection of woods for facts concerning the character of the wood and the economic value of each species with its associate trees; also for maps showing natural range. It was the original aim of Mr. Jesup that architects, cabinet makers and others interested in wood, as well as those interested in growing trees as a commercial venture, might have a ready place of reference for getting acquainted with not only the well-known species of American trees but also the many others little known and appreciated in the lumber market. A forester can tell the rate of growth of various trees and therefore can estimate the time that it will take a given species to reach merchantable size and the average product that it will yield per acre. He can foretell, as a result, whether a particular woodland will or will not give satisfactory returns under the existing conditions of taxation and with the possibilities of fire. The United States Forest Service advises free of charge any applicant with a problem for economic tree planting. Foresters study the conditions of the locality and give particulars concerning species to be planted, how to obtain the young trees and how to plant them and care for them. If the application comes from some region not previously studied by the Forest Service, it may send agents to examine the locality and prepare planting plans. In certain cases, this direct examination may be made free of cost even for large commercial undertakings, provided the work is of considerable experimental and educational value. (See Circular 22, United States Forest Service.) The Australian eucalyptus is proving a valuable discovery for America. Forestry experts are studying the problem of its successful culture both in the Southwest and in Florida. Eucalyptus has unusual rapidity of development coupled with an all-round usefulness of wood, and under the right climatic conditions is likely to give commercial crops in a much shorter period than our native trees. More than 23,000 acres in California have been turned over to eucalyptus growing during 1909 and 1910. Many of the trees in the following list are those about which the United States Forest Service has gained definite planting data through actual experience and which have been proved to give best results under artificial conditions.
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